Hair and makeup designer Nadia Stacey has found inspiration not only in Nina Hagen, but also in Blondie singer Debbie Harry, who she says often pairs edgy styles with pink lipsticks.
Still from Disney’s Cruella. Image via Disney.
German punk princess Nina Hagen isn’t the most obvious inspiration for a Disney movie, but Cruella isn’t your typical Disney movie, either. New live-action origin story about the black-and-white-haired comic book supervillain is less about a maniacal Dalmatian-skinner than a budding designer with a punk sensibility who seeks to disrupt the sultry ways of the past in the years 1970 in London.
Departments like hair and makeup and costume design work overtime to blend in with the fabric of a movie. But in Cruella, the story itself puts them in the spotlight. So director Craig Gillespie and star and producer Emma Stone enlisted some of the best in the business to help them out: Jenny Beavan, two-time Oscar-winning costume designer, who has mastered it all, from Merchant Ivory period films like A room with a view to the post-apocalyptic looks of Mad Max: Fury Road, and Nadia Stacey, BAFTA-winning hairstylist and makeup artist, who turned Stone into an 18th-century social climber The favourite.
“I never thought I would. It was never a movie that would fit in my line of stuff because I’m not really trendy, ”Beavan said. “Of course I was in the 70s. This movie and this script reminded me of what it looked like.
With the script, full moodboard, and Gillespie’s soundtrack in mind, Beavan and his team began designing originals and scouring vintage London stores for real pieces and things that had at least l ’70s spirit, when button-down styles from Dior and Balenciaga gave way to Vivienne Westwood with zippers and holes all over.
“It was really fun,” Beavan said. “Every time we produced something new, (Stone) seemed to go like a duck to water and make it work. She is absolutely and without a doubt, totally fabulous.
One of the last looks that stood out for Beaven was Cruella’s military-style jacket paired with a large skirt and Doc Martens.
Stacey said she was given a rule for Cruella: black and white hair should be on the same side as in the cartoon. Everything else was fair.
“I kind of went with a punk spirit, like, you know, I’m just going to do that and go there and see what happens,” Stacey said. “The punk revolution was such a change in fashion and music, makeup and hair. It sort of follows Cruella’s story.
Stacey has found inspiration not only in Nina Hagen, but also in Blondie singer Debbie Harry, who she says often pairs edgy styles with pink lipsticks.
“It sparked the idea that I could do punky or messed up stuff but keep an element of beauty in it, which not only makes it period and punk, it gives it a new take and makes it modern,” said Stacey said. “So if you do a really graphic and hard (look) you can make a softer beauty lip with it. Or if she’s hanging from a garbage truck, she may still have pink and blue jewelry that contradicts the situation. There’s that kind of juxtaposition, a real clash of things that I tried to keep in mind while creating.
One of Stacey’s most striking looks (and one that many beauty bloggers have already recreated and sent to her) features Cruella with a black spray paint mask over her eyes with the words “The Future” stenciled. The police, she said, were based on a Sex Pistols album art.
“I told Emma that wondering if I was angry, and she said, ‘No, let’s do it,’” Stacey said.
Stone, she said, was a believer in everything. She didn’t have to dye her hair for the role, but Stacey said she would have done it in the blink of an eye.
“I weighed in a bit, but there were geniuses creating her look,” Stone said. “Putting it all together really made you feel like Cruella de Vil.”
The whole effort was an epic undertaking with an announced budget of $ 200 million. There were some 277 costumes for the main cast, 47 changes for Cruella / Estella and 33 for Baroness Emma Thompson.
“Every week I would come in and my (assistant director) was like, ‘Oh, we’ve got a big week this week,’ and I said, ‘Every week is a big week.’ We have four to six hundred extras and balls and galas, ”said Gillespie. “We were just running all the time.”
A single gala scene required 152 wigs and the dressing of 149 members of the supporting cast. Another pivotal party featured 80 dresses and 88 wigs, each of which took four hours to prepare.
“I’ve never seen such attention to detail before,” said actor Kirby Howell-Baptiste, who plays Anita Darling. “It was also kind of like a party, like the stage where we were outside and basically, like, at a rock concert, it was exactly like that.
Cruella currently playing in theaters and is available to rent on Disney +.