There are times in the entertainment industry when certain practices are called into question, and it seems like the licensing issues of a Cruel The inspired fashion line has started a hornet’s nest when it comes to the rights of film and television costume designers. While some costume designs become so iconic that they are instantly recognizable, the financial compensation or off-screen revenue that can be generated by the designers behind them are usually non-existent. Now a number of costume designers and the Costume Designers Guild have publicly lambasted the “unfair” practice and do not care if it puts their own careers in jeopardy.
Jenny Beavan, the Oscar-winning designer behind some of CruelThe amazingly designed outfits from in the new Disney movie, recently turned out not to know that a full line of clothing based on his original designs had been designed, licensed and released. The first time she heard of the line was when a friend passed her an Instagram post from the Rag & Bone brand, which announced their “new, officially licensed Cruel inspired collection. Although the 70-year-old remembers brief discussions about the possibility of working with Disney on co-branded items, the end of production on the film and the arrival of the Covid19 pandemic meant the designer had heard no further. talk about disney.
Speaking to Variety, she said: “I was sort of horrified. The thing about Cruel it’s that you have a fashion movie about two fashion designers. The whole story is that they almost have a war using fashion. So it’s so disrespectful to then bring out fashion lines. “
This is not the first time such problems have arisen recently, and it seems to have been an unspoken drawback of working in the industry for many years. In early 2020, a Her Universe clothing line drew their designs almost directly from the costumes of Harley Quinn’s Erin Benach and his compatriots in the Birds of prey movie. 25 years ago, the iconic costumes worn by Alicia Silverstone’s Cher in Distraught were used on ranges of dolls without any consultation with Mona May, who defined the look of the character’s wardrobe.
The extent of the problem was highlighted by Costume Designers Guild Director of Communications Anna Wyckoff, who said, “Historically this is a huge problem for our members and for all costume designers. Because, as everyone knows, a costume has a long life after the project – in merchandising, toys and Halloween costumes. So there are plenty of opportunities for costumes to be used for ancillary marketing purposes. “
CDG President and Designer Salvador Perez Jr added: “As costume designers our work has a life beyond the screen. Our work is reproduced for toys, costumes, fashion collections and more. Not only are we not allowed to participate in any merchandising profits, we are not even credited for our work on the original designs. “
There were of course a few exceptions to the rule, such as Eric Damon working with retailer Miss Selfridge on their Gossip Girl range based on her designs from the series, and Janie Bryant collaborating with Banana Republic on a license Mad Men collection, but this is far from standard industry practice. Perez Jr summed it up with an additional comment. “Producers, directors, musicians, actors and even the first [assistant directors] get a percentage of the profits from their work, ”he said. “Costume designers who help generate additional income from productions deserve to be compensated for the additional income earned.
Cruel is currently playing in theaters across the country and is also available on Disney + Premier Access for a limited time.
Topics: Cruella, Disney Plus, Disney, Streaming