Ballet has officially returned for the first time since the start of the pandemic, and this time with an exciting surprise. On April 25, the American Ballet Theater will debut with Lauren Lovette Variations of La Follia at Segerstrom Hall in California as part of the “Uniting in Movement” program composed of three works by contemporary choreographers: Jessica Lang, Lauren Lovette and Darrell Grand Moultrie. For its big comeback on stage, the company is teaming up with ready-to-wear designer – known by many in the industry as the God of Mesh – Victor Glemaud, who designed breathtaking costumes for the performance. . Although this is the first time that Glemaud has designed costumes, it is a challenge that excites him. “I just wanted it to feel really festive,” he said. “A lot of these dancers haven’t performed for over a year, so I really wanted to show the physicality of what they’re doing through the costumes.”
For this special project, Vanity Fair spoke with Glemaud for an overview of his costume design process. To start, Glemaud spoke with choreographer Lauren Lovette who wanted to make the costumes contemporary while remaining classic. To achieve this, he started with classic elements like the tutu – from the archives of the American Ballet Theater – and modernized it with colors and silhouettes. “I loved the idea that they would feel uniform, but different,” he says. Using jewel tones, he felt it “matched my aesthetic, but appealed to ballet and dance audiences.”
Throughout the design phase, Glemaud drew inspiration from this vibrant color palette in jewel tones: “The idea of jewel tones was bold, positive and joyful; this is what we all need now. To achieve the vibrant colors he envisioned, he hand-dyed each costume – a process that takes hours, if not days, to perfect. These bright and colorful pieces will be the key to his vision of making the dancers stand out on stage for their first performance, whether for the handful of spectators able to physically attend or for the majority who will be listening. virtually. With the overall costume design and color scheme, her main goal was to “celebrate the art of dance by making it truly beautiful and visually appealing”.
For Glemaud, ballet means “New York means culture, it means arts, and it also means memories.” After a year of hiatus, Glemaud and the American Ballet Theater aren’t the only ones ready to make new ones.
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